Eatery affordable, and offers a complex Pad Thai
Mark Laba
Province
Owner Wasana Phutmoh (right) and manager Amgsana Suboon of Baan Wasana proudly display pineapple fried rice with prawns, Tod Mann pla (fish cakes) and satay chicken. Photograph by : Les Bazso, The Province
BAAN WASANA
Where: 2143 West 41st Ave., Vancouver
Payment/reservations: Major credit cards, 778-371-8971
Drinks: Fully licensed
Hours: Lunch, 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner, 5 p.m.-10 p.m.
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There’s an old Thai proverb that says “At high tide, fish eat ants; at low tide, ants eat fish. And there’s an old food-reviewer proverb that states, hell high or low tide, I’ll eat both and finish it with a plate of pig’s knuckles smothered in goose liver and woodchuck fat.
I decided to put the proverb to rest and just go out and eat at this little hidden gem up on the swanky stretch of Kerrisdale. It’s a soothing room painted Thai-chili red with black-and-gold accents and all manner of art and artifacts to set the mood for an exotic journey.
The Law, who tends to be a high roller when it comes to the choice of restaurants she frequents, had her usual look of disdain as I steered her and Peaches into this place. That look gave way to pleasure as she wolfed down an appetizer order of khiaw krob ($4.95), eight deep-fried wontons with small bulbous pockets of pork in the centre. Peaches and I managed to nab a few and the slightly sweet and pleasingly pungent dipping sauce was excellent.
We also hit the spring rolls stuffed with cabbage, carrot, bean sprouts and glass noodles ($4.95). I’m always amazed at spring-roll ingredient listings because, no matter what you read, none of that stuff is discernable inside. Nevertheless this version delivered all the flavours, and the wrapping was as crisp as the crease in Elvis’s Las Vegas-years jumpsuit.
The chicken satay ($7.95) was also inspiring, with a seemingly built-in peanut sauce coating done during the grilling that had a light touch but deep-reaching tastes.
“I’m impressed,” The Law said. “Normally I don’t eat in places where there isn’t at least 20 pieces of cutlery per person.”
“And yet I’ve seen you gobble up Costco hotdogs like they were the last wieners on the planet,” I replied.
Next up was a flurry of dishes that comprised the main event. Gai pad prig khing, a chicken dish with curry paste, long green beans and red and green peppers ($9.25) was a sultry affair and as colourful as it was delicious. Beef Pad Ped ($9.25) was equally tasty, a bit more subdued with bamboo shoots and kaffir lime but the bit of chili lurked just nearby like a tropical storm looming on the horizon. My only beef was I thought there wasn’t enough beef on the plate.
A note of the Pad Thai noodles here ($9.95); Pad Thai being a ubiquitous dish that has lost its currency in many places as it’s just slapped together inconsiderately. On first glance, these noodles appeared unassuming and even lacked that odd, red, ketchup-like tinge that so many versions are imbued with. But on first bite, the complexity of the spicing rose to the forefront.
We finished with a wonderful Masamun curry ($9.25) chock-full of chicken and potatoes, soothed by coconut milk currents and the deep rich colour of a burnished golden Buddha. And, at these prices, I’ll be able to afford this meal for lifetimes to come, even if I can’t find an ATM in my next incarnation.
THE BOTTOM LINE: More bang for your Bangkok buck.
RATINGS: Food: B+l Service: B+; Atmosphere: B+