The Point in Steveston, a West Coast-inspired eatery, features locally grown produce and in-season seafood right off the fishing boats
Michelle Hopkins
Sun
The Point owner Matt Derkson on the patio with plates of Thai prawns and bruschetta. The restaurant is in Steveston, in the space where La Pergola Italian restaurant was located for many years. Photograph by : Photo by Peter Battistoni, Vancouver Sun
It’s been a long-held tradition in our family to head to Kitsilano for a Mexican feast whenever one of us has a birthday. But this year, I suggested we celebrate my son Jeffrey’s 22nd by trying somewhere closer to home.
Grudgingly, Jeff agreed to visit Steveston’s newest West Coast-inspired eatery called The Point.
We took a seat on the Mediterranean-style patio and Jeff — as well as my eldest son Mathew — admitted they liked the restaurant’s ambience.
Nearly every outdoor table was taken, as well as a number of tables inside, which came as a surprise given that it was a Wednesday night, the restaurant is somewhat off the beaten track and it only opened in mid-May. (This was the location of La Pergola Italian restaurant for many years).
We ordered a number of appetizers. The Bruschetta was a stand-out dish, with a balsamic reduction drizzled generously atop a mound of tomatoes, onions, fresh basil, oregano and melted parmesan. They also gobbled up some seared jumbo scallops served with roasted red pepper coulis. A man of few words, Mathew says they were “fresh” and “delicious.”
They ordered Saltspring Island goat cheese next. The cheese was warmed and served with a wonderfully aromatic black balsamic reduction and house-made crostini rounds.
The service was friendly and we were comfortable, sipping our Australian red wine in oversized glasses. The Point offers a selection of wines in a wide price range, although I would have preferred a more extensive list.
For our entrees, I went for the hot and spicy Cajun halibut, dusted in The Point’s own Cajun spices, pan seared and served with a delicious cranberry chutney (I could have used more, it was so good). Mathew and Jeff both went for the Pointed New York, a triple-A, eight-ounce strip loin finished with Salt Spring Island goat cheese, potatoes and vegetables. If plates void of any food are any indication, it’s fair to presume my sons both enjoyed their meals.
Derkson came over to say hello and ended up serving us; he has worked in the industry for more than 23 years honing his skills at a number of different restaurants in Richmond, most recently as the manager of the waterfront Shady Island Seafood Bar & Grill.
Born and raised in Steveston, Derskon has kept this truly a family-run eatery. Both chefs James Dawson and Stacey Baker are cousins.
“We want to come in with great food at a great price point and bring something for the locals,” said Derkson.
Taking advantage of the Steveston docks a mere five minute walk away, all the seafood [in season] is fresh and the produce is locally grown.
“Your food doesn’t have to travel too far to your plate,” he says.
Over coffee, Derkson surprised us by bringing carrying over a generous piece of decadent chocolate cake, which his mother bakes for the restaurant, and the patio patrons burst into a rendition of Happy Birthday. I love Steveston and I’ll certainly come back to The Point.
The absolutely delightful restaurant — which is walking distance from Garry Point Park — seats 40 inside and 20 on the patio. If Wednesday is any indication, I’d make a reservation for a weekend dinner.
AT A GLANCE:
The Point
100 — 3131 Chatham St., Richmond
604-277-7118
Open seven days a week, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and for dinner from 5-10 p.m. Closes Sundays at 10 p.m.
© The Vancouver Sun 2007