In a menu that’s heavy on steaks, seafood and schnitzels, the curried lamb Malaysia is a pleasant change
Mia Thomas
Sun
Co-owner Adriana Prokop inside the Gourmet Hideaway in Maple Ridge. The ambience is reflected in the menu, where the focus is on traditional central-European cuisine. Photograph by : Mark van Manen, Vancouver Sun
The Gourmet Hideaway in Maple Ridge has been around long enough to become part of the landscape, but for those who have yet to visit it — or those who haven’t been there for some time — it’s worth another look to experience this unique dining atmosphere.
Its old-world charm and muted elegance are pure mid-20th century Europe. Subdued lighting and old-fashioned lampshades soften the contrast between dark woods and light-coloured linens and walls.
The ambience is reflected in the menu, where the focus is on traditional central-European cuisine.
We started with a couple of appetizers. The prawns saute, flamed with onion, garlic, dill and sundried tomatoes, juggled a delicate balance of flavours. The onion and garlic could easily have overwhelmed the dill, yet each held its own in the tasty dish. The tomatoes added a needed tartness and the well-prepared prawns were rich and firm.
Our other appetizer was smoked salmon. The wild coho was served with capers, onion, cream cheese and toast. It was tender and tasty, not too fishy.
There was no shortage of onion, but the toast was delicious, slightly crispy on the outside and soft inside. The serving size was generous but suitable for a starter dish.
My companion ordered the curried lamb Malaysia. In a menu that’s heavy on steaks, seafood and schnitzels, it was an interesting and tasty change of pace. Small pieces of lamb were cooked with almonds, raisins and mango in a curry sauce.
It was presented on the plate in a way that allowed easy blending of the meat stew with the rice.
The dish wasn’t overly spicy, carrying an underlying sweetness from the fruit and a rich, gingery taste.
My order was the rabbit bourguignonne, one of the house specialties. The meat was flaky and tender and had been prepared with a delightfully herbed mushroom sauce.
The vegetables, firm and with a light butter coating, were a delicious complement to the meat.
Mashed potato balls had been crumbed and seasoned then lightly fried.
Rich as it was, food doesn’t get any more “comfort” than a soul-satisfying stew on a winter’s night.
We finished our meal on a sweet note: creme caramel and baked Alaska.
Both dishes were tasty. The whipped cream on the baked Alaska was served with a generous hand, as was the caramel sauce on the creme caramel, which was also light and creamy.
The Gourmet Hideaway’s menu does veer into exotic territory for those who’d like a break from the usual. Entree prices vary in the $20 to $30 range.
Along with the Malaysian dish, the restaurant has an Indonesian feast that is available for several days twice through the year and includes a range of dishes.
More information on the restaurant, and its full menu, is available on the website, www.gourmethideaway.com.
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The Gourmet Hideaway
11598 224th St., Maple Ridge
604-463-7122
www.gourmethideaway.com
Open Tuesday to Saturday, 5:30 p.m. to closing. Sunday: 5 p.m. to closing.
© The Vancouver Sun 2007