It was a happening place in the summer and the Southern California vibe seems to be working in the fall
Linda Bates
Sun
Chris Hannan serves up some fine food at the Karv restaurant in Kitsilano. Photograph by : Glenn Baglo, Vancouver Sun
The last few years have seen several restaurants cycle through this location at the corner of First and Yew in Kitsilano, but Chris Hannan, one of the owners of the newest eatery, Karv, thinks they’ve got the formula right this time.
“There were three different places in the last four or five years, but always fine dining,” he said in an interview. “We tried to ‘caj’ it down a lot to fit the neighbourhood. We tried to give the locals a place to come and have a great meal with a laid-back atmosphere.”
Karv, which opened in mid-June, was a busy place during the summer, with its proximity to the beach and large wrap-around patio. But would the Southern California vibe work in the rain-soaked fall and winter?
It initially didn’t look too promising as my son and I sat down at 6 p.m. on a recent dreary evening, the only diners in the place. But the hockey game was on (not too loud), our server was cheerful, the food was fresh and good, and by the time we left at 7:30 the place was two-thirds full.
It had, if not really a California vibe, a good, warm, neighbourhood Vancouver one.
And a neighbourhood place is just what Hannan and his partners Bobby Elliott and John Carroll have tried to create. Here, there’s nothing on the menu over $17 and many items are meant to be shared. The place has a casual pub-like atmosphere with a greater variety of food than a pub usually offers.
The three partners and chef David Strand developed the menu together — Southern Californian/Mexican (fish tacos, chicken burritos) with some Asian influences (red curry rice bowl, tropic-Asian fried rice). For dinner, there are mains like Maui ribs, salmon and steak.
We enjoyed everything we tried: the Baja house salad with avocado, strawberries sand pumpkin seeds with a touch of tangy poppy seed dressing; pork-filled spring rolls made from a “secret Filipino family recipe” with Hoisin dipping sauce; and fish tacos, fresh and spicy with grilled vegetables.
Especially good, and reasonably priced ($11), was the fish and chips, a large piece of halibut in tempura batter, “beer battered” fries and freshly made cole slaw. The signature boneless Maui ribs, though well marinated and grilled, were a little fatty for me; I’m not usually a fan of ribs and these didn’t make me a convert.
The fresh, tasty $5.25 Margaritas might convert me to a cocktail drinker, though.
The menu also includes burgers and sandwiches in the $10 range. Brunch is served on Saturdays and Sundays.
One comment about the atmosphere: Although it’s a warm, cosy-feeling place, now that fall is here they might want to work on the ventilation. With all the grilling and deep-frying going on, the dining area gets a bit smoky.
And what about the name? Keeping with the California theme, it’s a surfer (and snowboarder) term — to “karv” a wave. I thought it might refer to carving a steak — and that meaning too is okay with Hannan and company. Whatever makes the customers happy.
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KARV
Overall: 3
Food: 3
Ambience: 3 1/2
Service: 3 1/2
Price: $/$$
2201 W. First Ave., 604-730-0900.
Open Monday to Friday 11 a.m. to midnight and Saturday and Sunday 9 a.m. to midnight.
Restaurant visits are conducted anonymously and interviews are done by phone. Restaurants are rated out of five stars.
© The Vancouver Sun 2006