Parking your butt cleavage at Republic requires a high-decibel conversation. If loud music and an under-30 crowd sounds appealing, head on down and try its tasty nosh
Mia Stainsby
Sun
A young blond, perched on a tall barstool, flashes butt cleavage like a peacock displays its feathers. Two suits perched a couple of seats away cop glances and when she leaves, they burst into schoolboy laughter. Hand gestures give an imaginary squeeze to the departed bottom. Eee-yewww.
It’s my second visit to Republic and both times, I’m an alien. Or so it seemed. I just wanted to get back on my spaceship and like ET, go home.
But it’s me. Middle-aged, anti-bum cleavage, noise-sensitive me. Republic is a restaurant/pub/lounge intended for a younger audience who can tolerate high-decibel conversation, umpteen flat-screen TVs and loud music. And there is a market for upscale watering holes like Republic. Next to us, a table of 10 work colleagues drink beers and wine, nosh on starters and have a good time. We were one of the few people having a full meal.
On the first visit, we sat upstairs. I worried about plunging 20 feet to the main floor from my high stool next to the railing. “What if?” I posed to my husband. “Can I finish watching the game if that happens?” he queried, clearly not as alienated as I.
The second floor of this late-night establishment morphs into a clubby scene with DJs and dancing as night falls.
As far as the food is concerned, it’s better than most pub food and priced just as reasonably. The offerings are a mix of pub-style casual dishes and more substantial ones like the grilled lamb rack with roasted green apple, walnut, mint salad and blue cheese fritters and the barbecued wild salmon fillet with warm potato salad, ancho chili and lime barbecue sauce. The lamb, by the way, is very well priced at $18 and nicely prepared.
Thumbs up also to the calamari and an arugula salad with charred vine tomatoes, although the parmesan shavings were not too tasty.
Despite my plan not to finish the “Fat Hamburger And Skinny Fries”, my plate, somehow, was cleaned out. A little dry, the burger did need a few whacks from the bottles of condiments permanently placed on the tables. A porcini ravioli with a mustard cream sauce was yummy. When we ordered the grilled butter chicken sausages, the server squealed in delight. “I’m so excited for you!” said the server, who probably does the equivalent of two Grouse Grinds by the end of shift — the kitchen is on level two and the stairs have three landings.
I wasn’t thrilled with the coconut wild salmon fish sticks — not the best use of salmon and the hoisin marinated short ribs were too leathery and chewy. A warm chocolate and amaretti cake held no sway with its damp, doughy texture but the vanilla bean gelato beside it was good.
Republic is one of many holdings under the Donnelly Group. The small dynasty of pub-bar-lounge-style facilities started with Bimini’s Tap House on West Fourth wa-ay back when but now includes Bar None, Denman Freehouse, Granville Room and Library Square Public House. Granville Room probably had some of the better food on Granville Mall, until the swanky Sanafir set up shop a few blocks away.
If you’re a sports fiend, or under 30 and want to cut loose with friends, the night-time Republic is for you. Lunch would have more mass appeal, drawing office workers and shoppers with a nice selection of sandwiches, salads, pasta and starters.
– Restaurant visits are conducted anonymously and interviews are done by phone. Restaurants are rated out of five stars.
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REPUBLIC
Overall: 3
Food: 3 1/2
Ambience: 3
Service: 3
Price $$
958 Granville St., 604-669-3266.
Open 11 a.m. to 2 a.m., every day.
www.republicbar.ca
© The Vancouver Sun 2006